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Roast Haunch of Venison with Hunter’s Sauce

Jeff Severson
This recipe blends the flavors of Scandinavia with those of the Mediterranean. Juniper berries are used with game in both regions, as is goat cheese. A classic sauce chasseur (“hunter’s sauce”) is made with mushrooms, demiglace and brandy. I have neither the time nor the patience to make my own demiglace, so I buy packets of it in the supermarket. In place of the brandy I’ve substituted Norwegian aquavit, which plays really well with the juniper berries. While this recipe is admittedly complicated, it is the perfect Solstice feast served with garlic mashed root vegetables and a Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Ingredients
  

  • 1 4-lb. boned-out haunch from a young deer, well trimmed
  • 2 juniper berries
  • 1 tsp. black peppercorns
  • 1 tsp. coriander seeds
  • 1 tbsp. kosher salt
  • 1 tsp. fresh rosemary, chopped
  • Olive tapenade (Trader Joe’s sells a good one, or you can make your own)
  • Fresh mint and parsley, chopped
  • Applewood-smoked bacon strips (enough to cover roast)

Instructions
 

  • Prepare grill for indirect heat. I use a gas grill with a cast-iron box full of woodchips over the hot zone.
  • When the grill is blazing hot I turn off one of the burners and place my roast on the “cool zone”. (If using an oven, preheat to 450 degrees; reduce to 350 degrees after the initial 20 minutes of roasting time.)
  • After the initial sear, lay bacon strips over the haunch to baste as it roasts. Roast until you achieve an internal temperature of 110 degrees (for rare); 130 degrees for medium.
  • While venison is roasting, prepare the sauce.